“Hat hat hat
hat…” “Hat hat hat hat…” The warriors of Takpala shouted, whileThe Takpala’s
women singing a song and dancing in front of them, guiding us through the stone
stairs and a path to the center of the village.
“Awesome, but
the currents are so strong. I’m exhausted” talked about the underwater and the
currents at Hari Lolong.
“Yeah and we
docked against the currents flow”
“Haha, I got to
take some break, before reaching this boat”
“So, how?
Satisfied?“
“Yes, sure thing
and no regret when going back to Jakarta this afternoon”
“Haha… exactly!”
“Halo” the
Ternate’s kids greeted.
“Halo” “Halo”
“Halo” so many halo with ear-to-ear smiles and giggles.
Those story
chapters are still so clear in my memory. Those, what we would always talk
about, to share and would last forever. My memory of the journey to Alor Island
in Nusa Tenggara Timur Provence, my Indonesia.
***
“Look! The
hair’s so awesome! Light purple” I told Adi, while sitting down at Starbucks,
Soekarno Hatta International Airport, Terminal 3, waiting for boarding time.
“Nah, she’s just
wearing some hat” Adi responded.
“No Di, that’s a
real hair” I insisted.
“Hah! *looking
carefully* Wow, you’re right, that’s a purple hair!” he shouted with surprise
The purple-hair
girl, named Upi, who turned out one of our twelve travel buddies in Alor with
Tukang Jalan.
***
Day 1,
The sun just
started to spread its morning ray and warmth in the east part of Indonesia,
when the wheels of the plane landed on El tari International Airport’s runway
in Kupang City.
3 hours later,
we continued our flight to Alor and by afternoon, I stepped on Mali Airport. It
was my first time flying with Fokker 50 and Alor is the easternmost of
Indonesia that I have visited, so far.
![]() |
| welcome to Alor |
Less than an
hour after, we arrived at Om Chris’ home stay, where we would spent couple of
nights in Alor. Quick break and refreshment before we jumped into the car and
headed to Aimoli Village, chasing the beauty of Alor’s sunset at the bird’s
head of this island. We watched the orange sun started to disappear in Flores’
Horizon, from Kokar Dock.
![]() |
| room at Om Chris |
![]() |
| dinning room at Om Chris |
![]() |
| sunset from Kokar Dock |
***
Day 2,
First morning in
Alor, and I stood on a stone dock called Alor Kecil, with my travel buddies,
waiting for the boat which would sail us to explore the beauty of the landscape
and the underwater of Alor.
![]() |
| view from Alor Kecil Dock |
![]() |
| the boat |
![]() |
| view from Alor Kecil Dock |
“Duk duk..duk
duk..dukdudkdukdurudukduruduk” the engine started, adding the noise to the
hustle of Alor Kecil Dock. One by one, each of us jumped into the boat and
headed to our first stop: Sebanjar.
“Shit! I left my
underwater camera at the home stay” I shouted and just made me a little bit
sad.
Sebanjar
This spot had a
quite long coastline with wide enough of shallow water area, before suddenly
became a steep downhill to the deep blue sea. So far, personally, this spot was
the best snorkeling’s spot in Alor. For me, Sebanjar was the jewelry of Alor,
my favorite. Sebanjar had a breath taking underwater park, so beautiful with
thousands of soft corals like their tapestry, dancing with colorful fishes.
Pura Island
This spot had no
beach, yet it had a quite wide shallow water area. The spot was also a route of
cold currents that even when we did snorkeling during midday, still felt so
cold shivering inside the water. The tapestry of the underwater was still
covered by soft corals, but not having Sebanjar’s density.
Pantar Kumbang
Beach
It’s a white
sand beach which has quite long coastline with crystal clear water. It was a
beautiful landscape and background for taking pictures. We did take photo
shoots there.
![]() |
| Pantar Kumbang Beach |
Kepa Island
Kepa is a small
island, located just across Alor Island. It only took less than 10 minutes to
cross to Kepa from Alor, by a small single motor wooden boat. So far, Kepa has
no electricity and fresh water. The residents had to use some solar light (in
the evening) and brought fresh water by boat from Alor Island. However there’s
a small resort called La Petite in Kepa Island and the price was so affordable.
The resort is owned by a French, and because it is a diver provider, divers would
be La Petite’s priority guests. It’s hard to find vacant room due to peak
season of diving.
![]() |
| Kepa Island |
![]() |
| Alor Island from Kepa Island |
The best spot
for snorkeling at Kepa Island was told at the other side where we docked, but
it was not recommended due to some sacred cemetery placed nearby the spot and
very strong currents. Anyway, Rudy, Adi, Upi and I did try for snorkeling just
near the boat. It was not bad, but definitely was not as good as the other
spots.
***
Day 3,
Again like a day
before, I sat on my favorite spot in this boat sailing crossing the sea, to our
first stop. Today I was so completely happy; because my camera underwater was
saved in my pocket. What a beautiful day, the sky was clear and the sun’s so
warm; enjoying the sea wind touched my face while listening the cheer and the
laugh from my travel buddies.
Bia Tabang
Still it was a
snorkeling spot with Alor’s specialties: soft coral tapestry. Alor is the
kingdom of soft corals but with clownfish rarely seen. It was like an abandoned
real estate. Not like the variety of the soft corals, Alor has limited kind of
fishes. However, I saw many of moorish idols here.
![]() |
| underwater at Bia Tabang |
![]() |
| underwater at Bia Tabang |
![]() |
| underwater at Bia Tabang |
Uma Pura –
Ternate Island
A stone dock on
a clear blue water looked clearly in my eyes, while the boat’s sailing near and
finally docked.
![]() |
| Ternate Dock |
“Halo” “Halo”
“Halo” the kids of Uma Pura shouted, welcoming us with ear-to-ear smiles, white
healthy teeth and beautiful dark/dark-brown skin color of East Indonesia.
![]() |
| one of the kids of Ternate |
Off the boat, we
walked through narrow winding path, with downhill on our right side. We walked
circling a part of Ternate Island to a small village which was well known by
their tenun ikat (a fabric from wool with traditional bundle technique).
![]() |
| a path to Uma Pura |
![]() |
| the view drom Uma Pura |
![]() |
| woman of Uma Pura with her tenun ikat in process |
The village is
located just by the beach with houses built at terracing land. The village was
a little bit confusing for me; it’s like a little labyrinth inside. The village
was so clean and I found friendly smiles and little “halo” in every opened window
and door. I was so welcomed here.
![]() |
| the girls of Uma Pura |
A young woman
sat beside her displayed product of tenun ikat.
“How much for
this” I asked her, while pointing a red scarf with sea turtle as its pattern.
“Fifty thousand”
she replied with smile.
“Okay, I’ll take
it” I responded the price with my best smile.
I was not sure,
but I guessed I noticed a glance of excitement in her eyes while I refused her
offer to wrap the scarf because I immediately just put the scarf around my neck
instead.
![]() |
| red scarf with sea turtle pattern |
Jawa Toda Beach
Like Pantar
Kumbang Beach, Jawa Toda Beach is a white powder sand beach with quite long
coastline. For sure, this place would be a perfect background of landscape in
pictures.
![]() |
| Jawa Toda Beach |
“Let’s go
snorkeling” some friend said.
“Yeah” “Let’s
go” other replied.
The captain
cancelled to drop off the anchor, and continued sailing to the next
snorkeling’s spot.
Hari Lolong –
Pura Island
We’re back to
Pura Island but at a different spot from the day before. The spot called Hari
Lolong, has no beach but rocky shoreline with narrow shallow water. Hari Lolong
was my other favorite snorkeling’s spot with soft coral tapestry and many of
schooling big fishes, including barracuda. Wearing complete snorkeling gear
(fin and life vest) would be necessary here, due to strong currents, unless you’re
a good and strong swimmer.
![]() |
| Hari Lolong's underwater |
![]() |
| chasing the fish |
![]() |
| schooling fish |
![]() |
| Hari Lolong's underwater |
“It’s good.
Isn’t it? But the current’s sick, so strong!” I shouted after jump into the
boat.
“Indeed, the
current is strong” Prue answered.
“I had to have
quick breaks couple times before I can reach this boat” I continued.
“Yeah, so do I
haha” Prue replied.
“Hey, why they
pullover to the rocky shoreline?”
“Haha I bet they
are tired against the current”
And four of us
on boat continued our conversation about random topics.
“There, they are
walking along the shoreline. I bet they would continue snorkeling from across
the boat and back here”
“Oh haha, the
current beats them down”
And the first
time what Didith did after back on the boat was nagging Dwi. Turned out they
were drifted by the current to the rocky shoreline. They got casted away.
They were waving
and screaming to us, blew a whistle, but unfortunately the wind blew against us
to them, so we couldn’t hear any sound from them.
Thank God,
everyone was safe and sound. Every nag, anger now becoming a laugh and joke.
Hopefully, that little incident would become a funny story for us and a warning
for others.
Kepa Island
We got back to
this small island, not for snorkeling but for staying one night at some local
house (because La Petite was fully booked) and spent the night at Kepa like
locals.
“Days before you
guys arrived in Alor, there were hundreds of dolphins in this strait, fooling
around there” Agus said, while pointing to the narrow strait between Kepa
Island and Alor Island, in front of the house.
“Seriously!”
others shouted.
“Yes! Look at
these pictures and video” Agus replied and opened his camera.
Unfortunately,
there was none of dolphins by the time we spent the whole afternoon waiting for
them to show.
![]() |
| the strait - one of the dolphins playgrounds in Alor |
![]() |
| view from home stay at Kepa |
The night was
getting late and the sea wind blew stronger. One by one of us left the small
circle and went to the bed room. Resting their eyes and soul, continued the
journey in the utopia world and left no sound but peacefully breath.
At the end,
there were only three of us left in the circle (Me, Dwi and Papa – the owner of
the house).
They both talked
about the needs for fresh water and electricity in Kepa Island, related with
new regent elected.
Me? I just sat
on my chair and looked to the dark canvas up above, enjoying every twinkle of
the millions stars and trying to count the falling stars (which were
often).
***
Day 4,
I woke up and
instantly saw the peaceful blue strait. It was so made my day. Pity, we had to
check out and sailed back to Alor Kecil dock and continued the exploration of
Alor in land today.
Alor Besar
Village
First stop was
Uma Fanja to see 800 years old Quran, which was inherited from the first
generation of Alor Island. The Quran was written on a wood paper and saved
inside a 800-year-old wooden box.
![]() |
| the 800 years old Quran and its box |
Kadelang Market
The traditional
market was located in the center of Alor City. There’s no difference from other
common traditional market. We stooped here to buy betel and arecas for a gift
to locals in our next destination.
![]() |
| one of the corners of Kadelang |
In really tight
schedule, one of us decided to go inside the market and looking for Alor’s
walnuts, which was quite famous in Indonesia.
Takpala Village
This is a
traditional village of Abui tribe, which was located in a highland of Alor, not
far from the downtown. There were couples of warriors and women in traditional
clothes were ready to welcome us, when our car entered the village.
![]() |
| Abuis at Takpala Village |
“Hat hat hat
hat…” “Hat hat hat hat…” The Takpala’s warriors shouted and jumped. The
warriors kept shouting and gently moved to the heart of the village, to the
place where the welcoming ceremony and two traditional dances would be held.
While the
warriors shouted and jumped, the women of Takpala danced elegantly while sang
some song. The song was sound like a perfect collaboration with the sound of
leaves from tall trees which were fence off the path, a way to the center of
the village.
Two similar
dances were performed: Lego-lego and Cakalele. The dance and the song were monotone,
yet so mysteriously beautiful and peaceful. We got also invited to join the
second dance (Cakalele) and danced with them.
The dances
started with some warriors shout something and followed by the beautiful
monotone songs, sang by the women. The dancers slowly moved then forming a
whirl with 3 Mokos as the center. So breath taking, and I thought it was
something that I had to see, live.
![]() |
| the dance was just to start |
![]() |
| the warrior of Takpala |
![]() |
| the woman and the little woman of Takpala |
![]() |
| the beauty of Takpala |
Beaches: Batu
Putih, Ilawe, Dehere, etc.
Leaving Takpala,
we just drove the car along coastline of Alor. There were so many beautiful
beaches and most of them were empty from any visitors. The Beaches never failed
to show us the beauty of blue and turquoise of Flores Sea.
![]() |
| Batu Putih Beach |
![]() |
| Batu Putih Beach |
![]() |
| whether Ilawe or Dehere |
***
Day 5,
Last day in Alor
Island. The travel organizer: Tukang Jalan had no schedule anymore, a.k.a. it
was a free time. Most of my travel buddies were leaving Alor in the morning,
while me and Adi would leave Alor after lunch, to Kupang then continued our
flight back to Jakarta.
Lucky me, I
succeeded to persuade the others left (Adi, Prue, Dwi and Agus) to go to
Sebanjar again and did some snorkeling for the last time in Alor.
Sebanjar
“So, how’s the
second time?” Prue Asked me.
“Satisfied and
no regret to go back to Jakarta this evening” I answered with big smile.
“For sure”
others laughed.
![]() |
| Sebanjar's underwater |
![]() |
| Sebanjar's underwater |
![]() |
| Sebanjar's underwater |
![]() |
| Sebanjar's underwater |
![]() |
| Sebanjar's underwater |
![]() |
| Sebanjar's underwater |
![]() |
| Sebanjar's underwater |
![]() |
| Sebanjar's underwater |
![]() |
| Sebanjar's underwater |
After a quick
face refreshment with mineral water and changed my clothes behind the bush, Adi
and I were ready to get dropped off at Mali Airport.
Mali Airport
Time 12.30 CIT
(Central Indonesian Time / WITA) Adi and I were sitting in boarding lounge,
waiting for our plane which got delayed because of the wind. The wind blew up
to 25 knot and the Aviation Safety policy for Fokker 50 allowed the plane flew
only in 10 knot.
Time 13.00 CIT
Adi sat in the boarding lounge. Me? Sat in canteen outside the small terminal
building joining my travel buddies ((Retno, Didith, Paul, Rudi, Upi, Liza) who
were flying to Kupang this morning. Yes, they got also delayed by the wind
condition.
Time 15.00 CIT
we left the Mali Airport because all flights were cancelled for today and we
had to extend our stay at Alor for another night.
![]() |
| 25 knot |
Takpala Village
Blessing in
disguise. We still had a little time to spend in Alor, and we decided to visit
Takpala Village one more time. On our previous visit, there were so many
visitors and we barely even checked the traditional market selling many of
handy crafts by Abui Tribe.
We arrived at
Takpala Village an hour or two before dusk. There were a few of them and still
with a big smile welcoming us. They were not wearing their daily traditional
clothes, but they still sold many handy crafts in their shops. There were no
other visitors but us, so it was perfect.
Me? Explored the
market looking for something unique and made from wood.
3 of us (Rudy,
Upi and Paul) tried to wear Takpala traditional clothes, it was fun!
The rest of us
were exploring the village, accompanied by one local as the guide and stories
teller.
![]() |
| traditional house of Takpala |
***
Day 6,
(Additional)
Mali Airport
Time 07.00 CIT
finally we were boarding and flew to Kupang.
A second or two,
I turned my head to see for the last time, the beauty of Alor in Mali Airport.
I smiled and walked into the plane.
![]() |
| Mali Airport from the hill |
“Good morning”
greeted by the flight attendance.“Morning” I
replied.
***
It was an
unplanned vacation and I decided to join the trip by impulse invitation from
Adi. It was a vacation to destination that I never expected before. Great
travel buddies, and great destination are the perfect vacation.
The people of
Alor were so kind, friendly and welcome. The city, the village and the sea were
so clean because the people take good care of their land. The people of Alor
treated us with no difference with foreigners. It was so cool, especially for
me who had couple of experiences for being discriminated in Bali.
Alor definitely
has a beautiful landscapes, interesting cultures and for sure, awesome
underwater park. I think I got a whole package in this trip. I spent quite more
expensive budget for this trip (than my previous trips) and I’m happy. It’s
totally worth it. Money well spent.
Hopefully
someday, I can go back to Alor. I can go back to the beauty of Alor and
hopefully I will find The Alor that I’ve known before.
***
Special thanks to Resviana O.
for my English translation review
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